adventures in Istanbul series… vol.1. Pierre Loti & macun (candy on a stick)

Macun getting ready to be rolled on sticks...

Macun getting ready to be rolled on sticks...

*Turkce blog icin yazinin sonundaki linke tiklayin… Macun bizim kulturumuze ait birsey oldugundan, bu yazi icin Turk olanlarin Turkce blogu okumasini tavsiye ederim… Ingilizce yazi daha cok yabancilara yonelik…

I have been collecting so much material to post in Istanbul and other cities we are visiting in Turkey. I find it almost impossible to update the blog in the evenings… And then after a few days pass I am not that interested in that place, or topic that I thought about… I had writer’s blocks before… but I am new to this opposite… There are too many things to post, but I just don’t know where to begin… it’s very similar to having too many knitting projects on the needles…
So for a few days I will try to post instant updates “from location” using my iPhone… this post was meant to be a test post, but I couldn’t figure out how to upload my pictures. (will solve that soon). Of course the quality of the photos will suffer, hopefully the content will make up for it. I will try to follow with more explanatory posts such as this one, especially if I am writing about a location, restaurant etc. Feel free to comment and and ask for additional info…

The view from Pierre Loti Cafe

The view from Pierre Loti Cafe

Today we were at Pierre Loti Cafe in Eyup. It’s interesting that I have never been there for the 7 years I lived in Istanbul although it’s just the type of place that I would enjoy… We also found out that neither my husband nor my best friend’s husband has been there… Since Ferda (my best friend) has been the only one that has been there, she also took the courtesy to drive the car through the claustrophobic Eyup weekend traffic ruled by chaos.  This historic cafe, or more appropriately tea/coffee house, has direct panaromic view of the “the Golden Horn“. We sat at a back table under the trees and sipped our tea.

When I walked down to take the above picture I saw a vendor selling “macun” (direct translation “paste”). This is a form of chewy candy that is wrapped on sticks. It comes in various colors and aromas… There really isn’t something identical to macun in the modern candy culture. The taste is identical to hard candy, but it’s as chewy as marshmallow but you cannot bite into it. The candy sticks to your teeth for dear life. The best part is to order what you want, and then you have the option to have the top dipped in lemon.

see that lemon waiting for its own share of this perfect candy...

see that lemon waiting for its own share of this perfect candy...

We used to have these candy vendors all around the shopping areas when we were kids. Then when candies started being produced and sold by factories these vendors dissappeared. In my hometown, we used to have something similar to the ice cream trucks… but instead of mobile ice cream, these vendors provided a “mobile merry-go-round”. When I heard the music of the approaching truck, I used to run upstairs to get permission and coins from my mom… That same truck also sold “macun”… I guess I learned about that tactic in my MBA class as product lining (marketing strategy of offering for sale several related products).

I haven’t seen a macun vendor for at least 15 years. I was soooo happy to be able to offer my kids macun… Of course I also got one for myself… But you really have to be a child to appreciate the soft candy sticking to your teeth while your are trying to manouver the dangling strings from your chin… As expected “macun” won their hearts immediately, nothing can beat that smile in a child’s eyes when they find some new taste and enjoy it to the last bite…

the best tastes always come wrapped around a stick!!

the best tastes always come wrapped around a stick!!

Macun cubuklara dolanmayi beklerken...

Macun cubuklara dolanmayi beklerken...

Son gunlerde blogumu o kadar ihmal ettim ki… Aslinda, bir suru fotograflar ve malzemeler birikti… Ancak o kadar yogun gunler yasiyorum ki… gorecek cok arkadas, konusacak cok sey ve gezilecek cok yer var… Gunun sonunda da genelde cay icip, abur cubur yiyip cene calmayi tercih ediyorum… Yukardakilere ek olarak, yazacak cok sey var, ve ben nereden baslayacagimi bilmedigimden bir suru yaziya baslayip yarim birakmis durumdayim…

Bu sebeple, onumuzdeki haftalarda iPhone’umdan guncellemeler yapmayi deneyecem, ancak teknik sorunlari oncelikle cozmem gerekiyor… Bu blog yazim da aslinda “test iPhone” yazimdi, ancak fotograflari gondermekte sorun yasadim. Tabii ki iPhone’dan guncellemeler yapinca, fotograf kalitesi oldukca dusecek, umarim “icerik” ve konular fotograflarin ayibini ortebilecek… bakacaz… siz de lutfen yorumlarinizi ve sorularinizi esirgemeyin…

Pierre Loti Kahvesi'nden manzara

Pierre Loti Kahvesi'nden manzara

Bugun Eyup’tekiPierre Loti Kahvesi’ne gittik. Nedense bu tarz yerlerden cok hoslanmama ragmen, Istanbul’da yasadigim 7 sene boyunca hic gitmemistim… Son zamanlarda Amerika’da Turk dizilerinde, filmlerinde burayi gorup “ya buraya neden gitmedik?” diye hayiflanip durdum birkac kere… “Oraya mi gidelim? Buraya mi gidelim?” derken, Emre’yle(cocuklarim babasi) Ergun’un de(Ferda’nin sayin kocasi) daha once buraya hic gitmedigini ogrendik. Bir heves yola koyulduk. Daha once sadece Ferda gittiginden ve direksiyon kendisinde oldugundan Eyup’un bulantici haftasonu trafiginde yolumuzu pek sasirmadan 10 dakika’da tepeyi arabayla tirmandik ve yakininda bir otopark bulduk. Ferda daha once yuruyerek Eyup’ten cikmis… 2 cocukla pek cesaret edemegimizden kendisinden gelen “hadi inelim, yuruyelim.. cok ruhsuzsunuz…” ara gazlarini bertaraf ettik.

Pierre Loti, Halic’i tam tepeden goren, tahta sandalyeli tarihi bir kahve. Adi 19. yuzyilin sonlarina kadar “Rabia Kadın Kahvehanesi”ymis. Pierre Loti (1850-1923) ilk olarak 1876 yilinda Istanbul’a gelmis. Sonradan bu kahveyi sik sik ziyaret edip, nargilesini icmis… (kim bu manzara da icmez ki)… Ve bu tepeye, ve kahveye ismi verilmis…

Benim icin gunun suprizi kahveden 3-5 merdivenle asagiya inip fotograf cekmeye calisirken geldi. Sagimda bir macuncu belirdi… Sanirim 30-35 yasinin ustunde Turkiye’de buyumus herkes “macun”un ne oldugunu bilir… Macun kivaminda Osmanli’dan kalma, cubuklara dolanip satilan sekerdir kendisi… Degisik renklerde ve aromalarda sunulur… Kagit helva, pamuk helva vs gibi cocuklar icin “kacinilmazdir”… Bizim Cukurova taraflarinda, macuncular ben cocukken carsida, pazarlarda olurdu… Bir de benim favorim “seyyar atli karinca” kamyonetlerinde satilirdi… sokakta oynarken, kamyonetin muzigini duyup hemen kosardim eve… Bozuk paralari kapip, 3-5 tur atli karincaya binip, sonra olabilecek en buyuk macunu alirdim… Sanirim 15 yildir macuncu gormedim… 25 senedir filan da yemedim… Bugun tabii fotografi cekmeden, aldim macunumu… Elmali ve bogurtlenli… “limona batiriyim mi hanfendi” diye sordu, turistik kiyafetli ve oldukca beyfendi macuncu… “azcik ust kismina lutfen” dedim.. agzimin suyu akarak…
Yukari bizimkilerin yanina cikarken, Emre uzaktan elimdeki macunu gordu ve basini saga sola salladi… Ergun de “ne macun mu buldun? nerden buldun” diyince… “hep bulur boyle pis seyleri” diyerek beni ozetledi sagolsun… -haksizlik etmiyim, kahveye girmeden, kagit helva, simit ve pamuk helva da almistim…
Afiyetle yedim macunumu… cocuklar “anne lick-lick” diye tezahurat yaptilar… Ergun sagolsun, gidip onlara da aldi…

macuna batirilmak icin heyecandan olen limonu goruyor musunuz?...

macuna batirilmak icin heyecandan olen limonu goruyor musunuz?...

Son 2 senedir cocuklarim sayesinde bircok cocukluk anim depresti… Ancak bugun Halic manzarasinda, cay icip, cocuklari macun yerken seyretmek tarif edilmesi zor bir keyifti benim icin. Sonucta macunun zevkini tam alabilmek icin cocuk olmak gerekiyor… Dislere yapisa yapisa, her isirista lif lif sekerlerin oraya buraya yapismasini kefsetmenin keyfi ancak o yaslarda olur… sagolsun macuncu sayesinde ben de yillardir andigim macundan yedim ve super keyif aldim…

nedense tahta cubuga takilmis herseyin tadi enfes olur!!

nedense tahta cubuga takilmis herseyin tadi enfes olur!!

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2 responses to “adventures in Istanbul series… vol.1. Pierre Loti & macun (candy on a stick)

  1. Gokce’cim ne guzel anlatmissin. Agzina saglik! Istanbulda buyumus birisi olarak hem agzimin sulari akti hemde gozlerim yasardi.Yaklasik 2 sene oldu gitmeyeli ama herhalde bu sefer cok ozledim oralari. Umarim bende Eyup’e giderim bu yaz.
    Herseyin tadini cikarmaya ve buradan bizlerede iletmeye devam, LUTFEN 🙂
    Sevgilerimle;
    MIMI.

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